Spanish food is truly world class and, during a recent weekend in Seville, I was in foodie heaven.
With hundreds of bars and restaurants in the city we really were spoilt for choice. I’d read up on a few ‘must visit’ places but, for this first trip, we simply wandered around and went in to whichever took our fancy at the time – some were tiny bodeguitas with just a few locals sitting outside with a coffee, others were buzzing with a mix of tourists and locals. The one thing they all had in common? The food was delicious.
First up was Bar Agustin & Company on Calle Alvarez Quintero where we had the ubiquitous Russian salad – but with a twist as this version had prawns in rather than tuna. We also had one of my all time favourite Spanish dishes, tortillitas de camarones (shrimp fritters), which came with a lovely beetroot sauce.
Next stop was La Antigua Bodeguita in Plaza del Salvador. Despite being fairly early in the evening (the locals never really get going until late) most seats in the square were already taken. We had three tapas here – my favourite payoyo cheese, smoked tuna and cola de toro (bull’s tail).
The following afternoon after a morning spent wandering round the Alcazar we paid a visit to Bodequita Tomate y Sal on Calle Rodrigo Caro which has tables under the orange trees against the walls of the Alcazar.
Dish of the day from here was the gambas al ajillo (prawns in oil and garlic). We also had the local delicacy espinacas con garbanzos (a spinach and chickpea stew), plus plates of adobito frito (marinated fried fish) and atun a la plancha (grilled tuna) all washed down with an ice cold beer (or two).
That evening we wandered a short distance from our hotel to Bar Baratillo on Calle Adriano. With exposed wooden beams, bulls heads and other bullfighting memorabilia on the walls, the place was busy but the service was quick and we worked our way through a fair few dishes on the extensive menu. Anchovies in vinegar, seafood salad, fried aubergines and tortilla plus a couple of meat dishes for Mark including solomillo con vino de naranja (sirloin steak with orange wine).
Another day and yet more culinary delights. After a morning strolling round Plaza de Espana we stopped for a pre-siesta lunch in the tiny Bodega San Jose – a simple plate of prawns with a sprinkling of sea salt plus anchovies in vinegar sitting in the sun was idyllic.
For dinner on our last evening we started in Bar Alfalfa – a tiny bar on Calle Candilejo with a great menu for a small place. The manchego cheese tapa came with a lovely honey dip, and we followed that with hummus and a plate of bresaola (carpaccio of beef) with rocket. The highlight, though, was the wok fried noodles with chipirones (baby squid) – heavenly!
After a wander round the backstreets of the Santa Cruz area we finished the evening sitting outside in the still warm evening eating salmorejo, a cold tomato based soup, shrimp burger, langoustine horns and a truly delicious cod and squid ink dish.
Seville, you were amazing and your food didn’t disappoint.
What are your food highlights from Seville? Let me know in the comments so I can check them out on my next visit.